Elevating flavours at 35,000 feet

As Cathay’s Wine, Spirits & Beverages Manager, Ronald Khoo curates what passengers sip in the air and in Hong Kong’s lounges, while coaching crew members on the art of wine. The former banker and WSET-certified wine educator gives us a peek behind the scenes, from rigorous tastings to the Cathay Wine Ambassador programme.

How did you make your way from finance to wine?

I studied accounting and finance in the UK before returning home to Malaysia to work in corporate banking. Through my clients, I was introduced to the world of fine wines – and what began as curiosity quickly became a passion. I took the leap and opened a wine shop with some friends, then got into wholesale, duty-free sales and running supermarket wine sections. I moved to Hong Kong in 2015 and, when I came across the role at Cathay, it felt like the perfect fit.

What does a typical day look like for you? Back-to-back tastings?

Not quite! Our wine panel holds blind tastings about three to four times a year. Each session requires tasting about 60 to 80 bottles a day for three days. So, over the course of the year, we’ll taste a vast number of wines – usually around 1,000 bottles – ultimately selecting 80 to 100 to feature on our menus.

Beyond wine, I also oversee the rest of the beverage programme and what we call “dry store” goods, or non-cooked foods – things like caviar, chocolate, ice cream and snacks. The rest of my time is spent working with wine partners, managing our wine academy, reviewing customer feedback and proposing new ideas to elevate our passengers’ experiences.

What do you look for when selecting the wines?

Wines taste quite different at 35,000 feet than they do on the ground, because the lower cabin pressure tends to accentuate our perception of bitterness while the drier air mutes aromas. When selecting wines, we prioritise bottles that are fruit-forward with expressive aromas, balanced tannins and minimal oak, ensuring they remain well-balanced rather than overly tannic at altitude.

In terms of wine types, our passengers really love Bordeaux, Burgundies, Champagnes, Sauvignon Blancs and Shirazes – our menus are quite classic. They also expect high quality, so if we’re not particularly excited by a wine during our tastings, we will simply pass. We don’t want to choose the best of the worst, so we’re pretty particular in that sense.

Any long-standing collaborations or discoveries you're particularly proud of?

Yes, we have enduring partnerships with Krug, as well as iconic Bordeaux estates like Château Lynch-Bages and Château Montrose. Recently, we’ve added leading Chinese wineries to our routes in Greater China, where we pair wines and teas with our rotating menu of Chinese classics.

While our menu tends to be classic, our quarterly Discovery Wine Series, where we introduce uncommon grape varieties, also yields some gems. For example, we recently showcased a Saperavi from the country of Georgia, which was very fruit-driven, jammy and smooth.

How is the list evolving this year?

We’re focusing on elevation over expansion – we’ve just upgraded the quality of the wines offered in our Economy Class and, in Business Class, we’ve introduced second wines of prestigious Grand Cru houses. We’re also paying close attention to sustainability by encouraging lightweight bottles and recognising vineyards with regenerative, organic or carbon-reduction initiatives.

How do you help cabin crew members develop their wine skills?

In 2023, we created the Cathay Wine Ambassador programme to train crew members with a passion for wine. Through WSET Level 2 certification, they gain the confidence to discuss wine styles, recommend pairings and master serving techniques, including temperature and pouring. Looking ahead, my goal is to have a Cathay Wine Ambassador on every flight, so we can elevate the experience for all passengers.

Beyond wine, what else gets you excited?

I love our ice-cream programme – especially the fun, seasonal flavours – and our recently refreshed snack lineup. We’ve put a lot of thought into the combination of sweet, savoury, healthy and nostalgic Hong Kong favourites, like the traditional coconut candies.

How do you unwind outside of work?

For many years, I’ve supported a charity that provides meals to children in need in Cambodia. It now serves around 45,000 meals annually, and next year I plan to visit the schools to meet the children and help with meal distribution. I also really enjoy playing tennis and running. Actually, I once ran the Marathon du Médoc, an annual marathon in France, where you run through the famous vineyards of Bordeaux. The scenery was incredible, and they served us wine and water at each stop!

Any advice for young people considering a career in food, wine or aviation?

Follow your heart. If you’re passionate about something, try not to shove it away. Find a viable way to make it happen.